I found this photo of actress Christa Miller in House Beautiful magazine. She's leaning against the footboard of her bed. I have to say, I love the tufted look, but I'm even more in love with the idea of the wrap-around "couch-like" affect that this bed has. In the article, she says that the bed is custom made and that the headboard is similar to the footboard, but taller. I can just imagine the whole family sitting around in this bed, reading and relaxing!
This is the only other bed I've been able to find online that is even a little similar. Unfortunately, it was on someone's blog and they didn't cite the source! I'll have to keep looking!
Monday, November 21, 2011
Monday, November 7, 2011
Bathroom Details
Possible towel bar:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_272320-69133-4124_0__?productId=3055301&Ntt=andrews+polished+nickel&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dandrews%2Bpolished%2Bnickel&facetInfo=
Possible TP holder:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_272319-69133-4123_0__?productId=3029634&Ntt=andrews+polished+nickel&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dandrews%2Bpolished%2Bnickel&facetInfo=
http://www.lowes.com/pd_272320-69133-4124_0__?productId=3055301&Ntt=andrews+polished+nickel&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dandrews%2Bpolished%2Bnickel&facetInfo=
Possible TP holder:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_272319-69133-4123_0__?productId=3029634&Ntt=andrews+polished+nickel&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dandrews%2Bpolished%2Bnickel&facetInfo=
Thursday, November 3, 2011
Could be pretty for the master bathroom:
http://www.potterybarn.com/products/clarissa-glass-drop-chandelier/?pkey=cchandeliers
http://www.potterybarn.com/products/clarissa-glass-drop-chandelier/?pkey=cchandeliers
Wednesday, October 5, 2011
Peacock Window Possibility
This is another possibility for the peacock window. It adds "eyes" (circles with dots) to the outer layer and has dots that represent eyes, in two, staggered layers, towards the inside of the design. This design would necessitate going to either 9 or 11 "feathers" so that the staggered eyes could start/end on the same size.
I'm open to other possibilities. I am hoping for a design that evokes a peacock without saying "wow, that looks like a drawing of a peacock." While I don't want it to be too realistic, it also shouldn't be so abstract that no one realizes that it is supposed to represent a peacock.
I'm open to other possibilities. I am hoping for a design that evokes a peacock without saying "wow, that looks like a drawing of a peacock." While I don't want it to be too realistic, it also shouldn't be so abstract that no one realizes that it is supposed to represent a peacock.
Bathroom Fixtures
Bathtub: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100604939/h_d2/ProductDisplay?selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL&jspStoreDir=hdus&superSkuId=202793227&catalogId=10053&navFlow=3&keyword=kohler+archer+5ft+left+drain+soaking+tub&Ntpc=1&langId=-1&Nu=P_PARENT_ID&storeId=10051&Ntpr=1&ddkey=Search
Toilet: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100080110&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&MERCH=REC-_-product-1-_-100064006-_-100080110-_-N&locStoreNum=2207
Pedestal Sink: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100668662/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
Flooring: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&productId=202497914&R=202497914
Toilet: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100080110&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&MERCH=REC-_-product-1-_-100064006-_-100080110-_-N&locStoreNum=2207
Pedestal Sink: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100668662/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
Flooring: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&productId=202497914&R=202497914
Monday, September 19, 2011
Bathroom Walls
I'm wondering if we can save the current built-in unit that is in the den. Could it be reused in the bathroom (painted white?) Also, could we remove the paneling and use it as wainscoting? My only concern about wall materials in the bathroom is around the shower and toilet, which should both be tiled. The shower is obvious. The toilet--that's just to do with having little boys who aren't too accurate at the bathroom. Let's talk this over.
Bathroom Flooring
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&R=202497914&catEntryId=202497914#BVRRWidgetID
Here's the flooring I want for both the master bath and for the main floor bathroom. Home Depot has it for $6.95 per square foot. Or, can we find it cheaper elsewhere?
Here's the flooring I want for both the master bath and for the main floor bathroom. Home Depot has it for $6.95 per square foot. Or, can we find it cheaper elsewhere?
Let's talk about toilets!
Since we've got two bathrooms to outfit, it's time I started researching the essentials. I started with the most essential of essentials: the toilet! I learned that toilets are responsible for the largest share of home water use (30%). The average family of 4 flushes their toilet 5840 times per year. Given that, every savings of a 1/10th of a gallon per flush saves 584 gallons per year! That's a lot of water. Of course, because water is currently so cheap (we pay, at most, about a penny a gallon for water here in Manhattan, KS) that this doesn't make a big financial difference. But, imagining 584 gallons of pure, drinkable water flushed down the toilet each year--that is something to think about. So, I'd say our goal is to buy an efficient toilet without sacrificing much on flushability (a term that I just created.)
Currently, the standard for toilets is 1.6 gallons. Efficient toilets, single flush toilets are commonly 1.28 gallons per flush (GPF). Dual flush toilets are often 1.6/.8 GPF. The EPA has a "Watersense" label that marks more efficient toilets.
Other details: It's good to have a "glazed trapway" as this helps waste exit. Standard height is 14-15". Adults, particularly the elderly, like a higher toilet. Of course, we have young boys for whom a taller toilet would mean more accidents. So, standard is probably fine for us!
Pressure assisted toilets are often more efficient, but they are usually more expensive ($400 and up). And, I don't know if they are harder to install or repair.
Reviews about toilets tend to complain about cheap plastic seats and plastic handles.
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
Peacock Sketches
This is one of several possible versions of a peacock window. It's the most complex one. I have another, more basic one that lacks the inner set of "eyes" but it won't upload correctly to the blog, for some crazy reason. Anyway, it's a start!
Monday, September 12, 2011
Peacock Design
It's time that we got crackin' on drafting a design for the "peacock window." This design could also be modified to be used for custom wood decorative pieces for the covered entry ways and dormers. I've collected a few "fanlight" windows here, to act as guide/inspiration. The windows featured below have between 7 and 12 "rays." The ones with 10-11 rays look best to my eyes.
In this basic illustration of a peacock, you can see how there are different types of feathers, the "eyes" that we all think of and the "T"s which float above the rest. It would be impossible (and not even desirable) to try to reproduce all the feathers in a peacock tail. We'll have to decide what level of detail is desirable (and practical.)
In this basic illustration of a peacock, you can see how there are different types of feathers, the "eyes" that we all think of and the "T"s which float above the rest. It would be impossible (and not even desirable) to try to reproduce all the feathers in a peacock tail. We'll have to decide what level of detail is desirable (and practical.)
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
House with Southern Addition
On the main floor, the existing den is divided into a full bath and closet. The existing coat closet and half bath become the hallway to the new guest room. Off of the existing foyer, is a library. Off of both of these new rooms is a screened-in porch with a roof deck.
Upstairs, a master bath is added off of the existing master bedroom. It has a vaulted ceiling. A master closet, which will double as a small work out room, is also added. Both areas have access to the roof deck of the screened in porch.
Upstairs, a master bath is added off of the existing master bedroom. It has a vaulted ceiling. A master closet, which will double as a small work out room, is also added. Both areas have access to the roof deck of the screened in porch.
Existing House (pre-renovations)
This is the house as it currently is (click to enlarge images):
The upstairs is only a draft of the southern part of the house. The other bbath and two bedrooms are not documented, as they will not change in the planned renovation.
The upstairs is only a draft of the southern part of the house. The other bbath and two bedrooms are not documented, as they will not change in the planned renovation.
Sunday, August 7, 2011
Kitchen Specs
Current kitchen:
Our current is too small for me. It's hard to get through a meal without feeling crowded for space. The countertops are 2 feet deep. There are 13 feet of them (so, 26 square feet.) There is a 50" by 26" island. Beneath all these countertops are cabinets. In addition, there is a pantry that is 20" deep, 33" wide, and about 7 feet tall.
Components Desired in New Kitchen/great room:
1) "Sweet Prep" area: The Sweet Prep area is a space set aside for making pastry. It needs to have room for my stand mixer and room to roll out pie and cookie dough. I think 4 feet wide should be enough. It might be helpful if the counter was a bit deeper than normal (32" rather than 24"), so that it could accommodate canisters of flour and sugar. In the space above the counter I'd like two or three shelves that are 8" deep. Above the shelves can be a smaller cabinet. Beneath the counter will need to be drawers for baking sheets, cake pans, muffin pans, utensils. Once we get further along, I can measure my baking equipment to get an idea of the ideal size of drawers. Note, the sweet prep area should be near the oven. It doesn't need to be particularly close to the refrigerator. Also, I'm interested in having a sheet pan rack that would allow me to cool and temporarily store food that is on sheet pans. They are about 6 feet high and two feet square. It would need to be adjacent to the sweet prep area. Here is an example: http://www.webstaurantstore.com/heavy-duty-end-load-bun-pan-rack-unassembled/109APR1820L.html
2) "Savory Prep" area: Needs to accommodate: knife blocks, cutting boards, food processor, prep sink (a small sink for rinsing food and washing hands), utensils, spices, bottled oils/vinegars. Like with the savory prep area, I'd like some open shelving for the spices and oils and vinegars. The width of the area would need to be wider than the sweet prep (6 feet?)
3) Cooktop: six burners. Gas or electric? Undecided. I like to cook on gas. But, I'd like to have the house on electric, so that as they grid gets greener, the energy usage is more environmentally sound. Needs to have good ventilation (hood vented to the outdoors.) 2 feet of counter top on each side, for work surface.
4) Oven: Electric. As long as we are maintaining an oven in the "butler's pantry" one oven is enough in the kitchen. If we decide to eliminate the stove in the butler's pantry, then I'd like two ovens in the kitchen. It would be nice to have the oven in the wall with a microwave built in.
5) Dish sink: in front of a window area. Deep and wide, with a high arched faucet so that large stock pots could be filled in the sink. Stainless steel or other metal. Not interested in porcelain sink (stains). 18" on either side of sink for work room (drying dishes, overflow of dirty dishes.)
6) Pantry:
7) Plating/buffet area (free from other uses than putting out food, so that there is a place for this when other surfaces are full of meal prep stuff.)
8) Dishwasher: one is fine, as long as we maintain the dishwasher in the butler's pantry.
9) Room for a table: at least a round table, but perhaps a long, rectangular one, if it somehow suits the room. We like to have big meals, so there are times when we need lots of extra dining seating.
10) Casual seating: seating that is sofa height with a coffee table and a small TV.
11) Cookbook shelving
Our current is too small for me. It's hard to get through a meal without feeling crowded for space. The countertops are 2 feet deep. There are 13 feet of them (so, 26 square feet.) There is a 50" by 26" island. Beneath all these countertops are cabinets. In addition, there is a pantry that is 20" deep, 33" wide, and about 7 feet tall.
Components Desired in New Kitchen/great room:
1) "Sweet Prep" area: The Sweet Prep area is a space set aside for making pastry. It needs to have room for my stand mixer and room to roll out pie and cookie dough. I think 4 feet wide should be enough. It might be helpful if the counter was a bit deeper than normal (32" rather than 24"), so that it could accommodate canisters of flour and sugar. In the space above the counter I'd like two or three shelves that are 8" deep. Above the shelves can be a smaller cabinet. Beneath the counter will need to be drawers for baking sheets, cake pans, muffin pans, utensils. Once we get further along, I can measure my baking equipment to get an idea of the ideal size of drawers. Note, the sweet prep area should be near the oven. It doesn't need to be particularly close to the refrigerator. Also, I'm interested in having a sheet pan rack that would allow me to cool and temporarily store food that is on sheet pans. They are about 6 feet high and two feet square. It would need to be adjacent to the sweet prep area. Here is an example: http://www.webstaurantstore.com/heavy-duty-end-load-bun-pan-rack-unassembled/109APR1820L.html
2) "Savory Prep" area: Needs to accommodate: knife blocks, cutting boards, food processor, prep sink (a small sink for rinsing food and washing hands), utensils, spices, bottled oils/vinegars. Like with the savory prep area, I'd like some open shelving for the spices and oils and vinegars. The width of the area would need to be wider than the sweet prep (6 feet?)
3) Cooktop: six burners. Gas or electric? Undecided. I like to cook on gas. But, I'd like to have the house on electric, so that as they grid gets greener, the energy usage is more environmentally sound. Needs to have good ventilation (hood vented to the outdoors.) 2 feet of counter top on each side, for work surface.
4) Oven: Electric. As long as we are maintaining an oven in the "butler's pantry" one oven is enough in the kitchen. If we decide to eliminate the stove in the butler's pantry, then I'd like two ovens in the kitchen. It would be nice to have the oven in the wall with a microwave built in.
5) Dish sink: in front of a window area. Deep and wide, with a high arched faucet so that large stock pots could be filled in the sink. Stainless steel or other metal. Not interested in porcelain sink (stains). 18" on either side of sink for work room (drying dishes, overflow of dirty dishes.)
6) Pantry:
7) Plating/buffet area (free from other uses than putting out food, so that there is a place for this when other surfaces are full of meal prep stuff.)
8) Dishwasher: one is fine, as long as we maintain the dishwasher in the butler's pantry.
9) Room for a table: at least a round table, but perhaps a long, rectangular one, if it somehow suits the room. We like to have big meals, so there are times when we need lots of extra dining seating.
10) Casual seating: seating that is sofa height with a coffee table and a small TV.
11) Cookbook shelving
Kitchen Plan
Click on photo to enlarge.
Here is a possible kitchen/great room configuration that would meet our needs. It adds a door to the east, to access a new patio area (this would require moving the current A/C unit for the 1960 addition.) It reduces the size of the current window and adds one on the other side of the north wall. It also reduces the number of glass "door sized" windows by one (and eliminates the higher windows, giving a more traditional look to the room.) In front of the fireplace is a space for a dining table. To the north of the dining table area the cabinets and countertops continue. Delineating the table area on the west side is a half wall with book shelves, accessible from the east (for cookbooks.) In the remaining area, a small seating area is drawn. Our preference for the stairs is that (coming up from the mudroom) you go half way up facing west, then turn and complete your ascent facing south.
**UPDATE** We've decided to that we'd like to add a third window on the north, centered between the other two.
Here is a possible kitchen/great room configuration that would meet our needs. It adds a door to the east, to access a new patio area (this would require moving the current A/C unit for the 1960 addition.) It reduces the size of the current window and adds one on the other side of the north wall. It also reduces the number of glass "door sized" windows by one (and eliminates the higher windows, giving a more traditional look to the room.) In front of the fireplace is a space for a dining table. To the north of the dining table area the cabinets and countertops continue. Delineating the table area on the west side is a half wall with book shelves, accessible from the east (for cookbooks.) In the remaining area, a small seating area is drawn. Our preference for the stairs is that (coming up from the mudroom) you go half way up facing west, then turn and complete your ascent facing south.
**UPDATE** We've decided to that we'd like to add a third window on the north, centered between the other two.
Thursday, July 21, 2011
Peacock Motif Inspiration
Here are some images, some photos of peacocks and others graphic images of peacocks. Just to give some reference on designing the peacock window.
Saturday, July 16, 2011
Plan B Modifications
Although there are things that we like about Plan A, the total budget for the project (including house maintenance and the future kitchen) is getting so high that we've decided that Plan B is the right option for our family. For Plan B, I'd like to make the following changes. On the main floor, create just one full bathroom rather than a 3/4 and 1/2 bath (as noted in previous post.) Widen the two story addition by a foot (so, 15 feet rather than 14) giving a bit more space to move around in the guest bedroom. Consider a "bump out" window seat on the rear as an alternate. Because I'd like to use the hallway leading to the guest bedroom to hang coats, put a door to the bedroom so that it could be closed off from the hall. Reduce the size of the screened porch from 4 bays to 3 bays wide. Upstairs: put doors on the closets so that the room could be used as a work out room (without having to look at clothes hanging up (maybe this is already the case, but I couldn't tell from the drawing.) Eliminate the window from the shower (the skylight should be enough lighting.) Put a door or a long window from the closet to the roof deck. As with the main floor, include a two foot bump out on the west side.
Wednesday, July 13, 2011
Things to Discuss
At our next meeting, we need to discuss some options for the house, including materials for siding and roof. In terms of siding materials, I'd be interested in knowing what the architect/builders would recommend. I've been interested in concrete fiber board. We'd like something durable and relatively low maintenance. As for the roof, I've been interested in a steel roof. I'm willing to consider other options, with durability, low maintenance and energy efficiency as important features. Neither Mike nor I are fond of the look or other features of a wood roofing materials. We'd like to hear more about other alternatives that we might not have considered.
Modification to Plan A
Could we shorten or lower the windows in the exercise room so that we don't have to put dormers on the south and the north sides of the roof? We'd just prefer how that would look from the side view of the house.
Modification to Plan B
Yesterday, in our meeting with the architect, we decided on a "Plan A" (Super Nice) and "Plan B" (Budget Friendlier.) As I went to sleep last night, I decided there was a modification to make to Plan B. Rather than a separate half bath and 3/4 bath, I'd rather have a single bathroom with a tub. The sketch below shows a possible layout for that bathroom. You enter and see the vanity in front of you (I'm now on the lookout for an vintage dresser that might serve as the vanity for this room.) To your right is a shallow, built-in bookcase (the wall of the tub enclosure would just have to be wider to accomodate that.) Giving just a little bit of privacy to the toilet is a half wall, which is also a bookcase (with the shelves on the side away from the toilet.) The space in front of the window is empty. I thought I could get a pretty little vintage chair, as a place to sit and get dressed, and put it there. Toiletries could be on the shelves on the half-wall. Does that make sense? In any case, I wanted to update the plans so that we could get a more accurate price. As always, you can click on the photo to enlarge the image.
Monday, July 11, 2011
Bathroom Faucet
I would like a high, arched faucet for the master bathroom. Preferably with "cross" style handles, set apart from the faucet, with a vintage look. I haven't been able to find the combination of a high arched faucet with the set-apart cross style handles (well, not in a vintage look--I have found it in super-modern sleek designs.)
This one is okay (the faucet is good) but I'd still prefer cross style handles:
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=103187-31356-L200-CH&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3005701&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
This one is okay (the faucet is good) but I'd still prefer cross style handles:
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=103187-31356-L200-CH&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3005701&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
I like the finish on this (shiny not brushed) and the vintage style. Would prefer cross style handles, but it is not a deal breaker.
Here is another one at found at Lowe's for just $116. American Standard Heritage Polished Chrome 2-Handle WaterSense Bathroom Faucet Item #: 191528 Model #:7830.000.002. Just FYI: I refuse to spend more than $200 on a bathroom faucet.
Sunday, July 10, 2011
The Library
Just off the foyer, we are adding a small library. The hope is that we can create a space that will function in different ways. First function will be as a storage place for books, toys and games to help reduce our main floor clutter. Related to that, it could be a children's play area when adults are talking in the living room (other side of foyer). In addition, as with any library, it will function as a quiet reading area. One other function, that I'm considering, is if this will be "the tree room." I love Christmas: the decorations, the tree, the food, the festivities. One of my laments about our current house is that it doesn't have space to share the beauty of the Christmas tree with passersby. In the new house, we could put the tree in the living room. But, the library has a "bump out" (a three sided windowed space) that could be ideal for the tree. The only hang-up is that there will, normally, be a window seat there, blocking prime Christmas tree space. I was wondering if the window seat might be moveable. It could move as a unit, or maybe it could be constructed like three, 2 foot wide ottomans that could be moved away from the window (might be also useful during a party). Something to consider!
This was a library image that I liked.
This was a library image that I liked.
Thursday, July 7, 2011
Upstairs Addition Floorplan
This is a drawing of one possible configuration of the upstairs addition. Click on it to enlarge. In the bathroom, we still have the tub in the bay window, but have tucked the shower (all glass) in a corner. The toilet enclosure moves to the north wall, and the sinks to the west. On the south side is a French door with one fixed side, leading to the roof deck. Yes, we're back to having a roof deck. We decided we liked the aesthetics of it a flat roof with decorative railing. We figure that we'll can use it carefully (with socks, no shoes).
In the master closet, we have added a washer/dryer with a small storage area adjoining it (north side of the closet space.) In addition to the price of the washer/dryer, we'd be curious as to how much this would add in price.
For the workout room, we wanted another French door (with one fixed side) leading out to the roof deck. In the picture, I've added a closet to the room. Mike is worried this will take up too much space. Apparently, he plans to buy a large piece of exercise equipment. So, maybe no closet. It would be nice to have some storage in the room, but not absolutely necessary.
In the master closet, we have added a washer/dryer with a small storage area adjoining it (north side of the closet space.) In addition to the price of the washer/dryer, we'd be curious as to how much this would add in price.
For the workout room, we wanted another French door (with one fixed side) leading out to the roof deck. In the picture, I've added a closet to the room. Mike is worried this will take up too much space. Apparently, he plans to buy a large piece of exercise equipment. So, maybe no closet. It would be nice to have some storage in the room, but not absolutely necessary.
Dimensions of our Current Master Bath
I measured our current master bath to give myself some perspective on what our needs/expectations will be for the new bathroom. Our current master bath is totally adequate for us. We don't need any more space that we currently have.
Total dimesions of bathroom = 11'2" x 15'
Toilet enclosure = 3' x 5'
Linen closet = 32" x 24"
Shower = 30" x 45"
Vanity with two sinks = 6' x 22"
Tub area (with tile surround) = 6' long (forgot to measure depth)
Total dimesions of bathroom = 11'2" x 15'
Toilet enclosure = 3' x 5'
Linen closet = 32" x 24"
Shower = 30" x 45"
Vanity with two sinks = 6' x 22"
Tub area (with tile surround) = 6' long (forgot to measure depth)
Friday, July 1, 2011
Peacock Motif
Somehow, I'm imagining our architect reading the title "Peacock Motif" and cringing a bit. But, here is the explanation. One of the few stories that we know about our house is that it was known as the "Peacock House" in the neighborhood. We were told that a peacock from the Sunset Zoo would frequently walk down the street and pay visit to a peacock (peahen?) who lived in our yard.
In addition to being connected to the history of our home, peacocks play a role in our family history. When we were married, in 1999, we chose the Sunset Zoo as the location of our wedding ceremony. This is because we had our first date there. During our wedding rehearsal, a white peacock followed me up the isle as we practiced. The next day, a peacock stood nearby and called out a few times. As such, peacocks have always had a special place in our memories.
Anyway, I was riding down the road in Dublin, looking out the bus window, when I began to notice that a few houses had transoms that looked a bit like peacock tailfeathers. It hit me, "peacock motif!" Wouldn't it be cool if, in subtle ways (I realize that peacocks are normally the opposite of subtle), we were able to work a peacock motif into the house. A few examples:
A peacock pattern in the transom window of this door. As a bonus, the door is a lovely color for an interior room.
Door with a peacock styled transom window. Includes a cover for the doorway that doesn't attach to the ground. This may be a good possibility for us to add a cover to our front door, given that we have an issue with the setback.
Two examples of "peacock like" patterns that could be used in the front patio area.
I just love this poster. I may buy a reproduction to frame for the house.
Saturday, June 25, 2011
Colors
Just a few notes on colors. In general, I'm in favor of them. That is, I prefer colors rather than neutrals, especially when the neutrals are beige/tan. My favorite colors are gray-blues to grassy greens. I particularly like blue/greens, such as robin's egg blue and tourqouise. I could easily decorate an entire house in blues and greens. I've learned, over the years, to select much more gray versions (less saturated) versions of my favorite colors, as colors seem much more intense when up on the wall. I'm also a big fan of crisp white and black/charcoal. I will always have a soft spot for black and white checkerboard floors (as well as kitchen cabinetry that goes up to the ceiling) because my grandmother's kitchen was like that. I also love white cabinetry with black countertop, small black/white tile mosaics, and crisp white trim that makes colors pop.
I've always been drawn to homes that are white. I love old farmhouses that are white with green roofs/shutters. I also like the look of a white house with a charcoal gray roof. I'm very open to considering color on the outside of our new house. In particular, I'm thinking a gray/green might be nice, with white trim (of course!) Despite having strong opinions, I am open to considering lots of options.
I've always been drawn to homes that are white. I love old farmhouses that are white with green roofs/shutters. I also like the look of a white house with a charcoal gray roof. I'm very open to considering color on the outside of our new house. In particular, I'm thinking a gray/green might be nice, with white trim (of course!) Despite having strong opinions, I am open to considering lots of options.
Robin's egg blue--my favorite color!
Tuesday, June 21, 2011
Roofing Materials
I'm trying to collect a bit more information on roofing. I've thought that a steel roof would be good, because it is made from recycled material, is recyclable, durable, long-lasting, and can reflect heat from the house. In the past few years, it seems like metal roofing options have really expanded. You can now get metal roofs in many styles, including faux tiles, faux slate, faux wood shingles, etc... These faux products are all put on in rows, one layer at a time. I'm not sure if that means that you're sacrificing anything in terms of how water proof the roof is (more seams would mean more chances for leaks, no?) The other options is standing seam roof in which the roof is put on in larger panels.
I'm still trying to collect more information on this topic. I did find one stone coated, faux shingle roof that looked nice to me:
It looks nice, tidy and comes in this pretty, charcoal grey color that I like.
I'm still trying to collect more information on this topic. I did find one stone coated, faux shingle roof that looked nice to me:
It looks nice, tidy and comes in this pretty, charcoal grey color that I like.
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Garrison Colonial
So, we met with an architect yesterday to discuss the house. One of my biggest concerns was the front facade of the house. While I was looking for a way to "fix" the front of a house in a way that was more appealing to me, the architect was trying to help me appreciate the style for what it is. After meeting with him, I'm making a genuine effort to appreciate it. Afterall, I love older homes and would love to maintain the historic character of the house. The problem is, the home doesn't feel like it "has character" to me. We were discussing how home styles can have different connotations. My favorite home in Manhattan, a beautiful white two story with Craftsman features, connotes a warm, welcoming abundance. It says "Come on in, we have enough to share." The house we are buying doesn't say that. I'm not sure what it says, other than "I'm a dumpy, schlumpy kind of Colonial" or "Paint me!" Part of the problem, as we discussed it, is my lack of familiarity with the architectural style of the home.
Apparently, the home is a Garrison Colonial. The central difference between this type and that of a more "traditional" Colonial home is the cantilevered front facade. The style has been around for a long time (Paul Revere's home, in Boston's North End, is an example.) Apparently, this style got quite popular in the 1930s continuing in popularity a bit during the boom of the suburbs in the United States. This may be my problem, as I associate this particular facade with suburban homes. In fact, the only homes with cantilevered front facades that I'd ever seen, prior to this home, were suburban split level homes. Because the suburban split level is entirely antitethical to what I want my home to connote, I feel put off by this style. Suburban split level homes say to me "I'm just a place to park your family." or "I was built during an era in which beauty and character were not priorities in home construction."
So, if we are to maintain this home as a Garrison Colonial (as both the architect and the husband wish to do) the challenge is to find a way to change the connotation of the home. Part of that is my own process of finding a new association for this style. But, it's also a challenge for the architect to find a way to design the addition and make minor cosmetic changes to help improve the look of the facade. I want the home to look beautiful, well-designed, abundant, and welcoming. Part of this will be helped by creating a path from the front door to the street (handicap accessible) and improving the landscaping. I liked what the architect said, about putting a lot of windows in the addition, helping it shine like a lantern at night. Who knows, if the proposed design is good enough, maybe he can convince me to keep the finials (which, I now know are classic features of Garrison Colonials. But, I still find them a bit annoying. I'm not much for decorative doodads that serve no functional purpose.)
Here's an old advertisement that Mike found for Garrison Colonial house plans. The great part is that you could order the plans, which came with a cardboard model, for just $1.00!
Apparently, the home is a Garrison Colonial. The central difference between this type and that of a more "traditional" Colonial home is the cantilevered front facade. The style has been around for a long time (Paul Revere's home, in Boston's North End, is an example.) Apparently, this style got quite popular in the 1930s continuing in popularity a bit during the boom of the suburbs in the United States. This may be my problem, as I associate this particular facade with suburban homes. In fact, the only homes with cantilevered front facades that I'd ever seen, prior to this home, were suburban split level homes. Because the suburban split level is entirely antitethical to what I want my home to connote, I feel put off by this style. Suburban split level homes say to me "I'm just a place to park your family." or "I was built during an era in which beauty and character were not priorities in home construction."
So, if we are to maintain this home as a Garrison Colonial (as both the architect and the husband wish to do) the challenge is to find a way to change the connotation of the home. Part of that is my own process of finding a new association for this style. But, it's also a challenge for the architect to find a way to design the addition and make minor cosmetic changes to help improve the look of the facade. I want the home to look beautiful, well-designed, abundant, and welcoming. Part of this will be helped by creating a path from the front door to the street (handicap accessible) and improving the landscaping. I liked what the architect said, about putting a lot of windows in the addition, helping it shine like a lantern at night. Who knows, if the proposed design is good enough, maybe he can convince me to keep the finials (which, I now know are classic features of Garrison Colonials. But, I still find them a bit annoying. I'm not much for decorative doodads that serve no functional purpose.)
Here's an old advertisement that Mike found for Garrison Colonial house plans. The great part is that you could order the plans, which came with a cardboard model, for just $1.00!
Monday, June 6, 2011
Rethinking the Front Facade
This is what the front of the house currently looks like. We plan to add a two story addition approximately 10 feet to the south (left in picture). Plus a single story sunroom or screened in porch. I'm not overly fond of the appearance of the upper windows. The very flat appearance and the blank white space above the windows looks awkward to me. Originally, we were thinking of putting a two-story Craftsman style porch on the front. In doing this, we hoped to change the look to Craftsman (my preferred style) and to eliminate the odd appearance of the windows.
Well, we're rethinking this. First, the interior of the house is fairly dark due to the large trees in the front yard. A front porch would only worsen this problem. Second, a protection from sunlight is unnecessary on the front of the house, as it faces east, so we'd be shaded in the evening. Third, we have a potential problem with the setback. There may not be enough room to build a porch without violating the 25' setback (because our property starts fairly far from the street.) We could apply for an appeal, but this would set back renovations by 45 days.
So, I began thinking about sticking with a Colonial facade. But, that still leaves me with the problem of the windows. Extending the house just 10 feet to the south would give a fairly asymetrical look to the building. So, I had a thought: if you added a window between the two existing windows, you'd be able to go out just 10.5 feet and still have symmetry, by having four windows. Also, if you bumped the roof line up a bit, you could eliminate the gables. Or, maybe you wouldn't have to bump up the roofline, if you could make the gables more attractive.
So, here's the idea (crudely sketched by me!):
Monday, May 30, 2011
Bathroom Design Elements
I have a pretty good idea of what I want the bathrooms in the house to look like. I like a small patterned black and white flooring, such as this one:
I like these train/hotel type racks for towels. In all of the metal hardware, I like polished nickel.
I LOVE this textured, pressed glass as a way to bring in light in areas where you want privacy. I hope we can use some in the house. This particular pattern is a favorite of mine:
This is a gorgeous bathroom. Though, I'd change the ceiling light fixture to something that better matches the scones (something white/clear with polished nickel accent.) I'd also make the vanities have storage. They could be white or dark/antique cherry. Mostly, I love the feel of this bathroom--so light and bright!
I'd like a deep tub that is long enough to stretch out your legs in, like this one:
I'd like the sinks to have higher, arched faucets. Just in case you wanted to fill something tall or water a plant. Something like this, but with less modern handles.
Handles like the one below, faucet like the one above.
Cabinetry would be pretty in a dark/antique cherry or in white. Countertops/sinks white. Wall color would be a nice pale blue green.
I like these train/hotel type racks for towels. In all of the metal hardware, I like polished nickel.
I LOVE this textured, pressed glass as a way to bring in light in areas where you want privacy. I hope we can use some in the house. This particular pattern is a favorite of mine:
This is a gorgeous bathroom. Though, I'd change the ceiling light fixture to something that better matches the scones (something white/clear with polished nickel accent.) I'd also make the vanities have storage. They could be white or dark/antique cherry. Mostly, I love the feel of this bathroom--so light and bright!
I'd like a deep tub that is long enough to stretch out your legs in, like this one:
I'd like the sinks to have higher, arched faucets. Just in case you wanted to fill something tall or water a plant. Something like this, but with less modern handles.
Handles like the one below, faucet like the one above.
Cabinetry would be pretty in a dark/antique cherry or in white. Countertops/sinks white. Wall color would be a nice pale blue green.
To Do List (a work in progress)
Here is a proposed list of changes to make at the new house. Top priority items are highlighted. Top priority items are ones that need to be done prior to moving in. It would be good to get as many other items done as possible, as our current budget allows.
Exterior of house:
Modify front facade (see post http://weschhouse.blogspot.com/2011/06/rethinking-front-facade.html)
Two story addition to south + screened porch with roof deck
New siding (white clapboard look, cement fiber board?)
New roofing (slate gray, steel roofing.)
New windows, where needed.
New exterior door on basement entrance.
Any exposed foundation given a limestone facade.
Repair/replace the brick on the chimney of the 1960s addition?
Repaint the original chimney?
Blow insulation into exterior walls.
Garage:
Repair damaged gutter, corner of garage.
New siding on front facade (to match house).
Paint top siding white.
Paint brick white.
Paint (or replace) garage door.
Brick Garden Shed:
At minimum, clean and repair gutters.
May need new roof
Basement:
Convert the "shop" into a mudroom with stairs up to the new kitchen.
Mudroom should have space for chest freezer, pantry storage, recycling center, hooks for coats, places for shoes, hats, gloves...
Create TV room in basement.
Improve laundry room (place to fold/hang laundry)
1960s Addition:
Convert to kitchen with room for informal dining and seating for entertainment.
Dining Room:
Replace carpet with hardwood or tile
Remove paneling.
Deal with chipping paint on window seat--lead paint concern. Should seat be replaced?
Add built-in storage
Add wainscoting.
1938 Kitchen:
Leave as is for now.
1938 Living Room:
Add wainscoting.
Repaint.
Foyer:
Remove paneling.
Add wainscoting.
New flooring.
Add windows around/above doorway to increase light.
Add doorway into new south addition.
Stairway:
New carpeting.
Den:
Expand into new South addition to create a main floor guest bedroom and full bath (handicap accessible.)
Stackable washer/dryer hook up?
Make a half bath accessible to public.
New Addition (main floor):
West part will be new guest room.
East part (off of foyer) will be small library/den space. Lots of bookshelves.
Screened porch (addition): 8 to 10 feet wide
Designed so that windows can be added later, if needed.
Upstairs:
NW bedroom:
Redecorate.
Existing full bath:
Leave alone.
2nd Story Addition (Master Suite Extension) 8 to 10 feet wide
Master bath including: small pattern, black and white flooring, deep rectangular tub with rounded corners, separate shower, toilet with dual flush, separate space for toilet with door (and ventilation), vanity with double sink.
Separate closets with built in storage.
Small seating area and/or area for treadmill
Attic:
Insulate attic floor.
Remove insulation from attic ceiling? (as suggested by inspector.)
Additional:
Update heating and cooling system
Update electrical where needed.
Exterior of house:
Modify front facade (see post http://weschhouse.blogspot.com/2011/06/rethinking-front-facade.html)
Two story addition to south + screened porch with roof deck
New siding (white clapboard look, cement fiber board?)
New roofing (slate gray, steel roofing.)
New windows, where needed.
New exterior door on basement entrance.
Any exposed foundation given a limestone facade.
Repair/replace the brick on the chimney of the 1960s addition?
Repaint the original chimney?
Blow insulation into exterior walls.
Garage:
Repair damaged gutter, corner of garage.
New siding on front facade (to match house).
Paint top siding white.
Paint brick white.
Paint (or replace) garage door.
Brick Garden Shed:
At minimum, clean and repair gutters.
May need new roof
Basement:
Convert the "shop" into a mudroom with stairs up to the new kitchen.
Mudroom should have space for chest freezer, pantry storage, recycling center, hooks for coats, places for shoes, hats, gloves...
Create TV room in basement.
Improve laundry room (place to fold/hang laundry)
1960s Addition:
Convert to kitchen with room for informal dining and seating for entertainment.
Dining Room:
Replace carpet with hardwood or tile
Remove paneling.
Deal with chipping paint on window seat--lead paint concern. Should seat be replaced?
Add built-in storage
Add wainscoting.
1938 Kitchen:
Leave as is for now.
1938 Living Room:
Add wainscoting.
Repaint.
Foyer:
Remove paneling.
Add wainscoting.
New flooring.
Add windows around/above doorway to increase light.
Add doorway into new south addition.
Stairway:
New carpeting.
Den:
Expand into new South addition to create a main floor guest bedroom and full bath (handicap accessible.)
Stackable washer/dryer hook up?
Make a half bath accessible to public.
New Addition (main floor):
West part will be new guest room.
East part (off of foyer) will be small library/den space. Lots of bookshelves.
Screened porch (addition): 8 to 10 feet wide
Designed so that windows can be added later, if needed.
Upstairs:
NW bedroom:
Redecorate.
Existing full bath:
Leave alone.
2nd Story Addition (Master Suite Extension) 8 to 10 feet wide
Master bath including: small pattern, black and white flooring, deep rectangular tub with rounded corners, separate shower, toilet with dual flush, separate space for toilet with door (and ventilation), vanity with double sink.
Separate closets with built in storage.
Small seating area and/or area for treadmill
Attic:
Insulate attic floor.
Remove insulation from attic ceiling? (as suggested by inspector.)
Additional:
Update heating and cooling system
Update electrical where needed.
Sunday, May 29, 2011
Siding Options
The existing siding on the house is a shingle style. It may be original to the house (1938). It needs to be replaced. So, we need to explore our options. I like the look of wood clapboard siding. It seems traditional and fitting with the style that we're trying to go with. But, neither Mike nor I are keen on repainting the house on a frequent basis. Or dealing with rot if the wood isn't painted and sealed properly. So, another option would be vinyl, but we don't want to deal with it becoming brittle and breaking. Aluminum siding can get dented, a big consideration in our area (with hailstorms.) My first choice, at this point, would be cement fiber siding. It doesn't rot and can be prefinished. I just did a bit of research and found that there is also steel siding. I don't know much about that yet. I'm looking forward to discussing this with our architect/builder team.
Saturday, May 28, 2011
Friday, May 27, 2011
Found a House to Remodel
Although it was our hope to find a lot in the downtown area to build on, we managed to find a property to renovate instead. This meets Mike's needs to have a nice, landscaped yard with mature trees. The yard, over an acre in size, is spectacular! The house will need some renovations to work best for our family. But, we're really excited about it!
Front of house. I'm not a fan of the appearance of the front of the house. I don't like how the upper floor hangs over the lower floor. I'm also not a big fan of the appearance of the top windows. I'd like to redo the front facade, giving it a more Craftsman look. I'd like to have a nice front porch, perhaps a double porch with access from the front two bedrooms onto a porch. The front of the house faces east.
This is the south side of the house. I'd like to add a sunroom to the main floor. On the top floor, I'd like to add on to the bedrooms, adding a master bath. There is only one "full" bath in the house. Which, is tiny and lacks a shower (just a tub with a shower wand.)
This is the back of the house (faces west). Normally, I'd skip a house with a west facing back yard, but it is so wooded that we have plenty of shade, I think. To the left (north) in this picture is an addition that was built around 1960. We are thinking of putting the kitchen in this addition, as the current kitchen is TINY.
This is the view from the north. The 1960 addition has a basement area that is a currently a work/crafts room. I'd like to make it a mudroom and have stairs added up to what will be the kitchen.
View from the backyard. Lovely landscaping!
Front of house. I'm not a fan of the appearance of the front of the house. I don't like how the upper floor hangs over the lower floor. I'm also not a big fan of the appearance of the top windows. I'd like to redo the front facade, giving it a more Craftsman look. I'd like to have a nice front porch, perhaps a double porch with access from the front two bedrooms onto a porch. The front of the house faces east.
This is the south side of the house. I'd like to add a sunroom to the main floor. On the top floor, I'd like to add on to the bedrooms, adding a master bath. There is only one "full" bath in the house. Which, is tiny and lacks a shower (just a tub with a shower wand.)
This is the back of the house (faces west). Normally, I'd skip a house with a west facing back yard, but it is so wooded that we have plenty of shade, I think. To the left (north) in this picture is an addition that was built around 1960. We are thinking of putting the kitchen in this addition, as the current kitchen is TINY.
This is the view from the north. The 1960 addition has a basement area that is a currently a work/crafts room. I'd like to make it a mudroom and have stairs added up to what will be the kitchen.
View from the backyard. Lovely landscaping!
The back patio, newly redone last year.
From the corner of the yard. 1.2 acres, in town! Wow!
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